3 in 1 - Skirt, Poncho or Tablecloth


I've made a few pieces of clothing which can be worn in different ways, so I'm thinking of introducing a new label - 3 in 1 for example :) I just can't resist the desire to try out multi-functionality of clothes, and that's what makes me - me. Therefore, this post goes to that particular category itself.


This Skirt - Poncho - Tablecloth was crocheted from an old unraveled cardigan that didn't fit me. I used hook No. 3.5, and the finished piece has 300 gr, while its length from waist to bottom edge is 55 cm.

My first idea was to make a nice, lacy skirt which would be worn over a bulky black tulle skirt. I wanted to find a diagram for a doily for this project, and this tablecloth caught my eye.


When I finished my skirt, I realized that it can be worn as a poncho, but also be used as a tablecloth, even with the hole in it - a fruit basket or a vase can be put in the center to hide the opening.


If you want a tablecloth, start from the center (Diagram 1) and follow it to round 45. Continue from round 46 to 90 on Diagram 2. For the skirt/poncho I followed Diagram 1 from round 8 to 41 (i.e. for as long as I had yarn).


Diagram 1
Diagram 2

Since the skirt must have an opening, first I determined which round to begin from, and that was round 8. Before that one, I crocheted a chain with the exact number of stitches as round 8. Then I wrapped it around my body to see if it is long enough for my hips. Naturally, the number of stitches on the diagram isn't very likely to match your measures, but it can be adjusted. In my case, the number of stitches for my hips was 154, and the diagram showed 144, so, 10 sts less than on my work.

Firstly, I crocheted 3 rnds of dc on 154 sts. Next, I followed Diagram 1. The pattern is repeated 8 times, and in the above mentioned rnd 8 one repeat is 2x 9 dc (the ch3 between the dc don't count). In order to equalize the number of sts with the number on the diagram, I skipped 1 st after each repeat (= 8sts equlized) and 2 more sts along the way (altogether 10sts to match the number of sts to the diagram). The additional ch3 between dc were sufficient to get the work larger in the next rnd and yet to keep the opening wide enough for putting the skirt on when its done.


The yarn I worked with was beige, so I dyed the piece once it was finished, because this isn't really my favourite colour. I wanted to achieve bright red, but the yarn had a very small percentage of natural fiber, and eventually, after cooking it twice, I got this pale pink. When you dye yarn or fabric, make sure there is at least 20% of natural fiber in it. Sadly, I didn't have that information and that's why the dyeing was only partly successful.

After washing and dyeing, I stretched and blocked my work. When it was all dry, I inserted a piece of elastic band in the first round of dc. The elastic is just a little shorter than my waist.

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